Back in June 2012 I, along with my dad, hooked up with Clearwater outfitters and set out on my very first bear hunt in Northern Idaho. The trip was great and despite some of the obstacles we encountered, including the weather, and our obnoxious Mormon counterparts, we managed to have a great time. The food was great and the staff were some of the nicest people we've ever met. Through the hospitality shown to us by Roger, Ben, and Anne, the trip would not be soon forgotten. So, in light of the fact that I didn't see any bear throughout a week of hard work, and after spending seemingly endless hours in tree-stands and ground blinds, Roger, the owner of Clearwater Outfitters, invited me to come back on a fully guided backcountry bear hunt in mid September, free of charge. I of course accepted and after heading home, began to plan out my return trip.
Well the next couple of months seemed to fly by and before I knew it it was time to make the journey back to Idaho for round two of backcountry bear hunting. I set out on a Saturday afternoon at 3:00pm and started to make my way to Missoula Montana, this way I could drive the rest of the way on the following morning. After several hours of driving through smokey sky's, followed by darkness, with my only company coming in the form of the Utah Utes over the radio, pulling out yet another win over the Cougars, I finally made it to Missoula. I found a hotel and was in bed by about 11:00pm.
The next morning I woke up early and started the remaining leg of my drive to Orofino, Idaho. As I navigated through Missoula and eventually made my was into the canyon I noticed the smoke filled air continued to get thicker and heavier until eventually I came across signs saying to "use caution" and "stay in your vehicle", so I knew right away that the recent forest fires were going to be a problem, but hoped that the smoke would subside by the time I got to my destination. Well, after four more hours of driving I managed to make it to base camp by about 11:00am. The smoke still lingered in the air, but seemed to have cleared enough to think that there may be enough visibility to hunt, or at least check out some of the incredible views that Idaho has to offer.
When I arrived at camp Roger was already busy packing the remaining supplies and saddling up horses and mules to start into the backcountry. I unloaded all my gear and it was strapped securely onto a mule, and within about an hour Roger and I were saddled up and ready to start our 6 mile ride to backcountry camp. Along with the two of us there were two other hunters that had already set out to camp earlier that morning, Mike, a long time friend of Roger and experienced hunter who had spent 25 years in Alaska, and Mike's buddy Steve, who was mainly along with Mike to accompany him on his moose hunt, though he had an elk tag as well. So in all we had 4 hunters, 14 horses and mules, and two dogs.
The ride was slow going with so many horses and mules to account for, but we moved slowly and steadily without any issues. For the first couple of miles we slowly climbed through dense, deep, dark forest country, surrounded by huge pines that must have been hundreds of years old. Eventually we made it to some clearings up on top and found that, though you could see the fires burning in the distance, approximately two big canyons over, surprisingly the smoke was not too bad at the time. Once on top of the ridges there were incredible views in all directions. Though there are not aspens due to the low elevations, there are many different kinds of brush changing colors in preparation for fall, including huckleberry bushes which are a dark shade of red at this time of year. Roger pointed out some of the areas we would be glassing and hunting throughout the week, and we made a few stops along the way to break out the binoculars and see if we could see any bear roaming around in the distance.
Well after climbing trails, navigating mountain tops, and zig-zagging down ridges, we arrived at camp, which consisted of a wall tent for Roger and I, and another large Kelty tent for the other two members of our party. The camp itself was situated in a kind of bowl area, with a meadow for the horses to graze and a spring for water throughout the week. After getting situated in camp we came up with a plan for the following morning, Roger cooked up some dinner, and we headed to bed.
Durning the first night we were awakened by the sound of buggling elk in the distance as well as curious horses tramping around through camp and seemingly stampeding through the area every few hours. When morning rolled around Roger was up promptly at 4:30am cooking up some breakfast and preparing a plan for the day. I rolled out of bed at about 5:00am, ate some breakfast, packed up my gear and the old trusty .270, and we were off. Roger and I headed up to "Blue Lake", which is one of a series of small lakes within the area that we would hunt throughout the week. On our way to the lake I saw some amazing scenery, and we had some fun calling in a buggling elk as well. Once we arrived at the look out over blue lake we could seemingly see forever in each direction. We used spotting scopes and binoculars and sat there for a few hours, hoping to spot a bear in one of the large surrounding canyons, but unfortunately didn't have any luck. After checking in with Mike and Steve over the radio, we bounced around to a couple of various other locations throughout the day, but no sign of any bear and by the afternoon the wind had changed directions which brought in the smoke. After a long day of hunting we finally returned to camp. Even though we had hiked all day and were pretty tired at this point, Roger cooked up a couple of steaks and potatoes and we had a great meal.
Throughout the next couple of days Roger and I continued to hike all around the area and look for bear. We saw elk along the way, mountain goats, moose, and deer, but do to the increasingly heavy smoke we were only able to glass small areas at a time and therefore were having a hard time finding the bear. We hiked to many of the surrounding lakes as well including; Blue, Larkin, Crag, Heart, Northbound, Nat, and Hero Lake. All the while I could tell that Roger was a bit stressed over the fact that we weren't seeing any bear. I continually did my best to assure Roger that I understood and that there was not much we could do about the hot temperature and the unpredictable smokey conditions. So we came and went, hiking around the countryside and the days rolled by. On the third night, just before dark, I stayed behind at the Larkin Lake overlook, while Roger headed back to camp to start dinner. All of these "overlooks" consist of very steep and rugged country, and most are on the top of cliffs, which make for great Mountain Goat habitat. While glassing with my binoculars I turned around to find a nice big "Billy" Goat standing right behind me....within probably 10 yards at the time. Earlier in the week I was told that goats have a bit of a reputation for being aggressive on occasion, so I was a bit startled at first, but once I realized that the goat couldn't see me I grabbed my camera and snapped a couple of photos and did a little bit of filming. The goat was very impressive and I had never seen one up close like that. They are strange, muscular looking creatures, with the bulk of their weight in their front quarters and upper body. Well the goat never seemed too startled and he eventually came to within about 10 feet of me. As soon as it got dark I headed down to camp and considered myself pretty lucky to have such a close encounter.
On the last day of the hunt we still hadn't seen any bear, but by this time I had seem some unbelievable scenery and was having a great trip. We decided that the four of us would take our horses and head off to Hero Lake, where we would do some fly fishing and hopefully see some bear along the way. Well lets just say that I quickly learned that horses and steep trails don't mix, and through a series of events found myself trying to control a horse while spinning around and jumping over a log on a steep backcountry pathway. Though I was feeling a bit uneasy about my spooked horse, I did my best to keep my cool and was able to make it the rest of the way without any other issues. The trail to Hero Lake had obviously not been traveled yet this year, and had thick undergrowth and fallen trees covering the vast majority, Roger walked in front with a chainsaw, clearing the path of any debris so we could eventually navigate our horses to the lake.
Once we managed to make it to the lake we had a great time, I have never been an avid fly fisherman, and tend to prefer to float a bait, but this was definitely the exception. This lake was the most remote in the area and therefore had very rarely ever been touched by fisherman, and almost every other cast there was a fish on my line, or at least a fish rising from below to take a shot at my fly. After fishing for several hours we were about to mount up and head back when we came across two guys that backpacked their way in to the area. The night before they had shot a massive bull elk, and were in the process of coming up with a plan, and trying to determine how in the hell they were going to pack the meat out on foot for 10 or so miles. We talked with them for a little while, and they tried to persuade Roger to let them use our horses, but we simply didn't have any choice, and we needed the horses to get back to camp. We set off back to camp and after traveling for an hour or so, Roger and I split off from Mike and Steve, and tried to hurry back so we wouldn't miss the last evening hunt before it got too dark. As we were walking our horses through a steep, rocky part of the trail, I turned to Roger and asked "Do you guys ever see any bear on the trail?", to which Roger replied, "No, haven't ever seen one on the trail, but we have seen them in the distance". Well not ten minutes later we came around a corner and suddenly Roger turned to me and excitedly yelled "Bear!, Bear!" I was behind his horse at this point on the narrow trail so I couldn't see the bear at first. I quickly reached up onto my horse and grabbed my rifle out of its satchel. I ran around to the front and about 60 yards ahead of me, right on the trail, was a huge black bear. I lifted by rifle to take a shot and just then the bear spooked and ran straight down the steep hillside and stopped. I had one more shot opportunity, I raised the gun, was just about to shoot, and suddenly two small cubs scurried up a large pine tree, both Roger and I saw this and I lowered my gun deciding that not only would it be unethical to take a bear with cubs, but it is also illegal. So, though I was a bit discouraged, I was happy to have had some excitement and the opportunity to finally see the bear up close during the trip.
After hunting for the last evening, I headed back to camp. We were all a bit disappointed that none of us were able to fill our tags, but had high spirits and I had really enjoyed my adventures in the backcountry. We sat and told some stories and drank beer, which eventually lead to Roger breaking out some Peach Schnapps. Mike told stories of when he used to guide Brown Bear hunts in Alaska, and other interesting tales of his hunting adventures as well.
When we woke up the next morning, we were moving pretty slow, but I decided to head up for one last morning hunt, while Roger packed up camp and prepped the horses. I walked for several miles that morning, down the same trail we rode in on, hunting along the way and taking in some of the views. I remember being kind of surprised that I wasn't more disappointed that I wasn't able to get my bear and realizing that the experience and the adventure was more of what I was after in the first place. I thought back to something that Mike had said the night before. He said, "You know, there is one good way to fuck-up a perfectly good hunt....and thats by shooting an animal". After thinking about it, there is a lot of truth to the statement, and this is probably why even though I usually don't fill my tag, I continue to love to hunt, and come back year after year.
After a couple of hours, Roger and the others caught up to me along the trail and I jumped on my horse and headed back. By the time we were back at base camp I was definitely ready to get off of my horse and get home, but was a bit sad to head back to the "real world". I thanked Roger for all of his hard work and drove all through the night returning home at 4:30am. All in all a great trip, hope to hunt with those guys again in the future. Until then, its the rifle deer and elk hunts in the next few weeks, and then time to retire the journal until next years hunting adventurous.